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We didn´t have much money and other localities, although more promising, were too expensive. People of Upper Sepik usually wear nothing, men are naked, women use short skirts. People are oppressed by the government, churches, timber producing companies… All we can do now is to hope that our next expedition is not the last one.

These skirts are swinged during dances while men use their penises as drum sticks. Cross your fingers – for us and especially for the Papuans to wish them living in their natural way of life as long as possible..

Finally we chose Upper Sepik which looked to be the best accessible destination. And still there are other, more promising localities for the next time!!! People have been changing – civilization comes everywhere. Some people have been dressed and those still naked are under a big pressure to get dressed, too. When people ask me about the best time to go to Papua I usually tell them the best time was yesterday, or the day before…

“I brought my husband to the police station and the police said, ‘You have so many kids—you should go back and not do this again.’ I wanted them to put him in jail for one or two years.” She says her husband was never arrested and the police never discussed the possibility of a protection order with her.

In Papua you can still find absolutely primitive cultures whose development ended in the Neolithic period (younger Stone Age).

Our guide, the aptly named Justin Friend, admits he's only been able to arrange it a few times.

"I e-mail a linguist who works with a village at the end of the road -- literally, at the road's end," he says.